Phulkari Art

 

Along with the crutches, this is the season for celebrating flowers. Now that handmade / handwork is a force to be reckoned with, the old Punjabi sewing is undergoing various revivals. And this time, the image has gone global - from New York to Paris. Last year, designer Manish Malhotra spoke at the Philadelphia Museum of Art about the restoration of floriculture: From sarees and modern salutes, phulkari can be easily translated and transferred to modern wardrobes. With so many broad words, I'm sure phulkari is being discovered on a global platform. "Time-embroidered embroidery has been an important part of Dohans (traditional heavy ducats) but is now gaining popularity as a decorative accent - with cushion covers, table cloths and even hanging on the wall. Known for its use of colors - vibrant, refined - traditional threadwork with Goat Highlights is anything but fine. With the fashion scene with phrases like 'slow fashion' and 'hand work', floristry is being preferred with stylish sets. 

Differentiate the garden

For non-beginners, floristry is the work of thread that uses linear stitches to create intricate flower-like patterns. The finished work is known as Bagh (or Bagh) and is worn by women in Punjab during weddings and festivals. Women embroider on khaddar (coarse cotton) on the wrong side of the fabric using silk threads called belly thread. Usually, it was used by him or his family members, but never for sale. Now, the florist is moving away from clothes and adapting to sofas, chairs, curtains, etc. Art historian and rest orator Alker Pandey, who is working to revive, revive and celebrate handicrafts, says there is a need to push floriculture out of Punjab for a wider appeal. "We are promoting it by making it more visible through exhibitions, displays and marketing. We need to take it beyond Punjab, as has happened with Chikankari in Lucknow or Kantha in Bengal - because whenever an art As part of the cultural identity of Punjab and Punjab it, Pandey needs to find commercial viability to make it sustainable. For this purpose, she has been preparing for the 'Flower Festival' for the last five years.

Beyond the basics

"Embroidery is an expression of a woman's existence," says Karandeep Kaur, a florist. She says, "If you look at the old patterns of gardens, you will realize before the partition and the green revolution how close floriculture was to every woman in Punjab." For example: "Kari Bagh" Fertility. And a sign of prosperity. 'Silence' wrapped in grandmother's blessings for her granddaughter; Darshan Draw, Sanchi, Wari Da Bagh, Sunflower (all samples of the garden) had a story to tell. "The art of making Phulkari symbolizes mother's love and blessing for her daughter. The symbol still exists even though the bags were not made by the family. In the last 14 years, we have raised the standard of Phulkari made in Punjab. I have tried to do that, ”she adds.

But if Harjinder Singh, a flower revivalist, is to be believed, the struggle to revive and modernize the thread has been a challenge. The Sangh has collected about 250-300 old bags from various sources so that they can be documented for their patterns, clothes and age. "We've started digitizing old vintage patterns instead of just keeping records on paper or soft media," he says. Using this technique, his team has developed authentic flower products that are wearable and fashionable. And what better way to celebrate spring than with some floricultural flowers - whether it's like duvets or decorations?

Phulkari is deeply rooted in the cultural fabric of Punjab. From fly duvets to sarees and modern salutes - florists

Can be translated with great ease in modern wardrobe "

- Manish Malhotra, Designer

Flowering facts

There used to be 52 types of flower stitches, but only a few

Have survived

Based on the type, pattern and style of work, it can be broadly classified as florist, gardener and pastoralist.

In the type of embroidery, the embroidery does not completely cover the fabric but the patterns are scattered on the fabric from time to time.

The whole surface is embroidered in the style of a garden (ie garden). Numerous designs are made, using daring stitching (horizontal, vertical and diagonal).

Chop is a style that is embroidered in red with yellow.

We need to take Phulkari out of the Punjab, as has happened with Chikankari from Lucknow or Kantha from Bengal - because whenever a piece of art is brought to the modern bazaar, it revives itself.

- Alker Pandey, art historian and restorer

Florist uses linear stitches to create intricate flower-like patterns. The finished work is called a garden (or gardens).

The tradition of sewing: a shot of embroidery in the process (above); And different ways to use work at home

The business of designing clothes for films is very different from fashion. How are they dealing with it? Winkey says, “I have designed clothes for actors like Priyanka Chopra, Ali Fazal, Neha Dhulia, but somehow never designed costumes for a film. This is my first chance too to design costumes for a film. There are those puzzles of where we will be working, what would be our time of visits and even as kajiggers work in our workshop, in this case I’ll be visiting the inmates almost twice or thrice a week to understand the project. Also, we will ensure that the inmates are not bogged down with the pressure of designing costumes for movies. When those inmates got to know that they have to design costumes for a movie, they told me it was a dream come true. One of the inmates told me that she always wanted a celebrity to wear clothes designed by her, but never thought it would be possible.”

On Tuesday, Vanke Singh and Mark Sheet's cast and crew met with inmates at Jail-6 in a fashion lab to talk about costumes. He will have regular meetings with prisoners over the next few days. "We will talk to the inmates about the script and the need for costumes, after which the clothes and purchases will be finalized," she said. The film is set to hit theaters around June, so we have two months to train the prisoners and put it together. I have seen their work and I think their professionalism is undoubted. I will take my best experienced craftsmen with me to Thira Jail for training.

She adds, "I have also spoken to Thira officials to include these women designers in my Punjab-based Phulkari project. So, like them, this is a start for me."

Ajay Kashyap, DG (Prisons) says, “This is a unique opportunity for the prisoners of Tiahrt. We rehabilitate and reintegrate prisoners after they have completed their prison term. And all of these activities are aimed at enhancing their skills and providing them with the means to support themselves once they are released. We have 18 projects in Thira including designing and tailoring. This is to impart skills, and a project like working for a film will enhance their abilities. Some of the operational details have been worked on. The designer and his team will visit Thira for this.